It borders on the impossible to dine in Bristol and not enter a building with ‘history’. The Riverstation, for example, was a former police station. Do you need to know this before booking a table? No; but as a conversational point of fact, it did spark half-hearted interest amongst my companions - not a peep though regarding the restaurant’s environmental element. Did you realise it was externally insulated in 1997 and, in a bid to become carbon neutral, is facilitated by two acres of planted woodland? All I got for ‘that’ research were raised menus. I looked down shamefully, at the Forest Stewardship Council certified oak flooring.

Riverstation describes itself as a ‘bright, colourful space with harbour views’. There’s no denying that – it was bright; dentists’ waiting room bright. Personally, I like dim places of food worship where peoples’ faces look less intense, but don’t let that put you off. Pre-meal, our merry group sat contentedly on the terrace, necking drinks and watching the boats slip by. After a few stiffeners, we trailed upstairs to our linen clad table, laid with spotless cutlery and gleaming wineglasses.

The Riverstation is not for the thrifty. Expect a bill at the end of the night that resembles some hideous garage invoice and it’s probably in your interest to invite companions that can add up as the evening progresses – difficult when instructions have been given to “keep the beer and wine coming”. However, no complaints from this quarter, it was my birthday after all - the generous management even gave me a cake! A little, one man cake, but a quiet consideration nevertheless.

You’ll find the menu choices wide and catering for most tastes especially the more adventurous eaters. Okay – so for starters I’d like the leek and potato soup with croutons – but what’s with the truffle oil?! Liver, rabbit and scallops also reared their noble heads but I opted for the crab and mixed herb ravioli with tomato and vanilla dressing, which I highly recommend.

Main courses might also startle the novice; words like ‘pollock’, ‘guinea-fowl’ and ‘keta caviar beurre blanc’ loom from the menu. My choice was a moderate ‘char grilled, dry-aged barrow gurney sirloin steak, maitre d’hotel butter and chips’. The other courses materialised like answers to a bizarre crossword puzzle upon my companions’ plates.

Pudding made for easier selection – chocolate fondant, crème brulee, fruits, tarts and cheesecake - allowing you to read between the lines. I had my ‘cake’ for pudding and saved a few quid. In fact, the staff were so attentive that after snuffing the candles with my fingers, they were re-lit and I was requested to blow them out! I did as I was told before looking gloomily out of their massive environmentally mental windows.

If you’re in need of a celebration, celebrating all that’s expensive and nutritionally futile, then Riverstation certainly warrants a visit. If you’re worried your bank manager questioning ‘the need’ for a £20 steak and chips, best sample the lunch menu and eat downstairs with the barflies. But, when all’s said and done my friends, just do it. One of the best places to eat it town – just don’t forget your sunglasses.

www.riverstation.co.uk

Paul Lever