Restaurant Review - Chef’s Choice at The Square

Fine dining should be an experience to savour; an experience which heightens the enjoyment of company and leaves your pallet rich from the flavours of laughter and indulgence. Dining at The Square on Berkeley Square, all of these high expectations seemed well within reach.



On arrival, we were seated in the elegant yet refined dining room decorated with local artwork and after exchanging pecks on the cheeks with our guests, we were ready to experience The Square’s Chef’s Choice Menu; a mighty six courses of culinary wonder, each course accompanied by its own carefully selected wine (£37.50 per person or £50 with wine).

First to arrive was a delicious course of fresh sage leaves stuffed with finely chopped olives and garlic, tempura battered to give a mouthwatering crunch, and served on a sauce of creamed flat leaf parsley, with a charming Spanish Macabeo to drink. To follow came a started course that appeared like a Christmas present waiting to be unwrapped. We collective tore into our thin crepes and were delighted with the soft, homemade goats cheese mixed with toasted walnuts, honey and fresh chives inside – a light, earthy taste with some rich underlying flavors.

The fish course was up next and it offered me some new experiences: We enjoyed a (slightly overly large) portion of Risotto Nero topped with a scallop, pan-fried to perfection, and some monkfish liver, an interesting rarity that I think I will have to give one more try before I pass judgement. The heavy flavours of this dish alongside the sharpness of a classic, crisp French Sancerre were superb.

Next was the meat course which was, by far, my personal highlight of the evening; an incredible soft and spicy treat that left my wanting just one more bite! We devoured a beautifully presented shoulder of lamb, stuffed with award-winning haggis from MacSween’s of Edinburgh, accompanied by broad beans, butternut puree, a red pepper sabayon and a heavy Australian Greenstone Shiraz to drink.

Next, working our way down the food mountain, things began to get really interesting. The cheese course, though hard to eat, was a celebration of flavour and texture; layered, spice pear relish, Cashel Blue mousse, a toasted hazelnut wafer and a sweet pear puree, and then came dessert; could it be? Was the adventure nearly over? We enjoyed every last mouthful of a light, dark chocolate mousse served with vanilla sugar roasted peaches, flambéed with absinthe and a devilish blackberry ice-cream. Fantastic!

Good food cannot guarantee an enjoyable evening but friendly service, an enjoyable atmosphere and a fantastic selection of drinks definitely go a long way; we certainly had an evening to remember. If, like me, you have to treat yourself every now and again to a memorable gastronomic experience, then this is one not to be passed up. Go on you only live once!

www.thesquareclub.com

Dave Penfold

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